Can You Get Honey From a First Year Hive?

How to Get Honey From a First Year Hive

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If you’re new to beekeeping, you might be wondering how to get honey from a first year swarm. You’ll learn how to split a hive, how to locate your hives in a bright spot with morning sun, and how to harvest honey before 80% capped. Hopefully, these tips will help you begin your beekeeping journey with the most honey.

How to get honey from a first year hive

How to split a new hive

To split a first year hive for the purpose of generating honey, the swarmers must have ample room for the new colony. A split hive is equivalent to a controlled swarm, so the splitters should decide on a swarm date and location. Queen cells from the old hive must be transferred to the new hive. Splitters should prepare the hive for splitting with plenty of pollen and nectar. They should feed it until super time, usually six weeks before the target flow.

Before splitting a hive, the new colony must have its own form and hive stand. It must be at least two miles away from the old one. To create the new hive, remove five frames from the old one. These will be the new foundation for the new colony. Once the hive is divided, the existing colony will produce honey, pollen, and pollen. Each smaller hive will require its own queen.

When to split a first-year hive for honey, take into consideration the location of the hive. Ideally, split a hive six to eight weeks before peak flowering season, when bees are most active. By splitting during this time, you will be able to prevent brood from getting cold. The swarm will migrate to the new hive as it needs it.

A split hive contains two brood chambers. An empty hive box on top of the brood chamber will hold the frames from the first hive. The extra space will allow the split to expand and contain the heavy half of the hive. Additionally, the new split will retain the queen cell, which will allow you to identify the newly mated queen. After splitting, it’s important to monitor the split carefully to ensure that it has the right environment for the new colony.

Place hives in a sunny location with morning sun

The harvest window for honey from a first-year hive varies from region to region and depends on the time of year. When the flow of nectar is strong, beekeepers add extra frames, called supers, to their hives. When harvesting honey from a first-year hive, be sure to exclude the queen as well as the other adult workers. This is because it can be too late or too early to get a honey crop.

The best time to build nucs is the beginning of the season, and the colony won’t grow much higher than two deeps. Place a queen excluder and a medium super on top of the nucs, and rotate them to the brood chamber. Bees are frightened of building foundation above the queen excluder, so be sure to rotate the brood combs so that they face upwards against the excluder.

It is very important to remember that you should not harvest the entire amount of honey at once, as you’ll end up starving the bees during the winter months. Keep an extra super in the hive, where you can store the honey after harvesting. You’ll be glad you did! If you do, make sure to store it in a jar. Once the jars are open, you can store the excess honey in a jar.

If you are new to beekeeping, you should plan on waiting for the second year before harvesting honey. Bees need this time to build comb, multiply their population, and store honey. Honey production is not guaranteed to be consistent year-after-year, though. In fact, the amount of honey produced will depend on several factors, including bad weather, too much swarming, or poor health of the queen.

Remove wax cappings from a frame of honey

The easiest way to remove wax cappings from a frame of fresh honey is to place it in a plastic bucket and let gravity do the rest. The next step is to use a five-gallon plastic pail to slosh the wax into. Then, place the frame in a double boiler and allow it to slowly boil until the wax solidifies.

Before you can begin extracting honey from a honeycapped frame, you must first remove the cell caps. You can use a knife to do this. Any long, flexible knife will do. A 9-inch fillet knife will work. You can also use a stainless steel sheet cake pan to do this. You can also purchase a Cappings Scratcher, which is a special device that scrapes off the caps from cells that are too difficult to remove with a knife.

Before removing the wax cappings from a frame of fresh honey from a first year hive, you should note that there will be some brood in the honey supers. This dark honey will be too small to extract separately, and it will also darken the honey overall. Depending on how much brood is in the supers, you may need to remove more than one.

Once you have removed the wax cappings from a frame of fresh honey, it is time to clean out the frame. You can rinse the honey cappings by placing them in a pail of cool water and then pour it into another bucket. Then, rinse the frame thoroughly in clean water to remove any remaining wax pieces. It is important to remember that beeswax is extremely sensitive to heat, so you should avoid overheating it.

Harvest honey before the 80% capped mark

As a beekeeper, you might be wondering if you can harvest honey from a first-year hive before it is 80% capped. The answer is YES! Nevertheless, you must make sure to harvest the honey before it is capped because after that, the bees will stop producing honey. You will also want to harvest honey from your first-year hive before winter sets in.

During my first year, I harvested honey from my hives a couple of weeks before the 80% capped mark. The honey I received was amber in color and very sweet. It was also lighter than the honey I would have gotten from a hive in the summer due to the flora available in the spring. I managed to harvest a total of 226,75 pounds of honey in only a few hours!

Protective gear for first-year beekeepers

Beware of the stings! Bees are notorious for attacking those who move too fast or too slowly. While more experienced beekeepers can get away without using gloves, newcomers should use protective gear to avoid getting stung. Beekeepers should wear gloves to minimize the risk of propolis and honey-stained fingers. They should also wear gloves with a wristlet or drawstring to prevent the stings from catching their fingers.

For starters, it is essential to purchase the proper equipment. Most beekeeping equipment is purchased unassembled. It is therefore a good idea to purchase equipment with preassembled frames. Purchasing already assembled frames can save you money and time. Be sure to check the measurements and cuts of each piece. Frames can be difficult to make, but are available commercially. Woodworking skills are needed for this step, so make sure you know the measurements of your frame.

A beekeeper’s hive should be situated in an area that is well-drained with good airflow. It’s also essential to have a good landing place for the bees. Bees can drown if there is no water nearby. The best place to keep them is near a water source. Otherwise, they can end up drowning or worse, becoming a nuisance to your neighbors. You also should have a substrate underneath the hive.

Gloves and jackets are essential protective gear for beekeepers. A quality pair of beekeeper gloves can protect your hands from the stings and scrapes of the bees. These gloves are also breathable and can even be worn without a t-shirt underneath. Buying a jacket will also protect your hands from the stings. When storing hives, consider using beekeeper gloves. They’re also essential when handling hive tools.

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